Ask our drivers which trip gets the strongest reaction from guests and most of them won’t say the dunes. They’ll say Tanot.
It’s a long day. You’re driving about 120 kilometres out into the desert towards the Pakistan border, to a small temple the BSF looks after and a battlefield where a hundred-odd soldiers held their ground through a December night in 1971. People come back quiet. A lot of them tell us it was the part of Rajasthan they didn’t expect.
Here’s everything you need to plan it: the history, how far everything is, when to go, what the border permit involves and how to fit it all into one day.
Where Tanot and Longewala Are
Tanot Mata Temple is roughly 120 kilometres northwest of Jaisalmer, close to the international border. Longewala’s War Memorial the other half of the trip, and the two are about 40 kilometres apart. Driving time from the city to either one is usually two to two and a half hours, depending on the road and how many army convoys you get stuck behind.
The usual loop is Jaisalmer to Longewala, across to Tanot, then back to Jaisalmer. It works out at a little over 250 kilometres all in, so it’s a full day and you’ll want to leave early.
Tanot Mata Temple History
Tanot Mata is worshipped as a form of Hinglaj Mata, the goddess whose main shrine is in Balochistan. The temple’s old. Tradition dates it to the time of the Bhati Rajput rulers who founded Tanot long before Jaisalmer itself was built.
What made it famous across India, though, is the 1965 war.
During the fighting, Pakistani forces shelled the area around Tanot heavily. Local accounts and the BSF’s own display say thousands of shells were fired and hundreds fell in and around the temple, and that many of them didn’t explode. The soldiers stationed there credited the goddess, and the story’s been part of the temple ever since. Some of those unexploded shells are kept on display in the small museum inside the complex, so you can see them for yourself.
After the war, the BSF took over the running of the temple, and it’s still managed by them today. That’s unusual. Jawans look after the daily puja and the aarti, and you’ll see soldiers praying alongside pilgrims. There’s a Vijay Stambh, a victory pillar, in the complex too, raised to honour the soldiers of 1971.
Visiting Tanot Mata Temple
Timings
The temple’s generally open from early morning until about 8 pm. The evening aarti, usually somewhere between 6 and 7 pm, is the most atmospheric time to be there, but if you’re doing the full loop in a day you’ll probably reach Tanot around midday. That’s fine. It’s peaceful then and you won’t be rushed.
Entry
There’s no entry fee. You’ll leave your shoes outside, and it’s a working temple, so dress modestly.
Navratri
Navratri, which comes round twice a year in spring and autumn, is the busiest time. Devotees travel from all over Rajasthan and Gujarat, and the BSF runs a langar for pilgrims. It’s a wonderful time to go if you don’t mind crowds.
Facilities
There’s a small canteen for tea and snacks, basic toilets and parking. Beyond that it’s very remote, so fill up with fuel and carry water before you leave Jaisalmer. Mobile signal comes and goes on the way.
Visiting the Longewala War Memorial
The memorial sits on the actual battlefield. You’ll see Pakistani tanks and vehicles captured in the battle standing out in the sand, bunkers you can look into, and a well-kept museum hall with maps, photographs and personal stories from the men who fought there. There’s usually a short film shown too.
What surprises people is how open and empty the ground is. Standing there, it’s easy to picture how exposed that post must have been.
Give it at least an hour, and more if you like reading every panel. There’s a small cafe and a souvenir shop.
It’s worth knowing you can’t see the actual border from Longewala. It’s still some way off.
The Battle of Longewala, 1971
On the night of 4 December 1971, a Pakistani armoured column of tanks and infantry crossed the border and headed for the small Indian post at Longewala. The aim was to push through towards Ramgarh and Jaisalmer.
The post was held by a company of 23 Punjab, around 120 men, under Major Kuldip Singh Chandpuri. They had no tanks of their own and very little heavy support. They were given the option to pull back. They stayed.
Through the night they held the position, using the ground, a minefield laid in a hurry and the few anti-tank weapons they had. At first light, Indian Air Force Hunter jets flying out of Jaisalmer arrived and went after the tanks in the open desert. By the time it was over, the Pakistani column had lost a large number of its tanks and vehicles, and the advance had stopped.
Major Chandpuri received the Maha Vir Chakra. The battle later inspired the 1997 film Border, which is why a lot of Indian visitors already know the story before they arrive, and why you’ll hear the soundtrack playing at the memorial.
Can You Visit the India Pakistan Border? (BP 609)
Yes, but only with permission.
Beyond Tanot, the road continues towards Border Pillar 609 and a BSF post where you can see the border fence itself. Civilians can’t go past Tanot without clearance from the BSF, and it isn’t handed out at the temple. Visitors normally apply in advance at the BSF sector headquarters in Jaisalmer, a few kilometres outside the city on the Tanot road, with original photo ID.
A few practical points that come up every time:
- Carry at least two original ID documents for everyone in the car
- Bikes usually aren’t allowed on the stretch beyond Tanot
- Rules change with the security situation, and permission can be paused at short notice
- Don’t take photographs anywhere you’re told not to, and ask before photographing soldiers
If the border visit matters to you, sort the permit the day before. We can help guests with the process, though we can’t promise it’ll be granted, since that decision is entirely the BSF’s.
How to Plan the Day
Here’s the plan we suggest to most guests.
- 6:30 to 7:00 am: leave Jaisalmer, with breakfast packed or a stop at a dhaba on the way
- 9:00 to 9:30 am: reach Longewala and spend an hour or so at the memorial
- 11:00 am: drive across to Tanot Mata Temple
- 11:45 am to 1:00 pm: darshan, the museum and the Vijay Stambh, with tea at the canteen
- Early afternoon: BP 609 if you’ve got permission, or head straight back
- 4:00 to 4:30 pm: back in Jaisalmer
Some people do it the other way round and leave later so they’re at Tanot for the evening aarti. It’s lovely, but it means driving back across the desert in the dark, and we’d only suggest it with an experienced local driver.
On the road out you’ll pass Ramgarh and the Ghantiyali Mata temple, which is another small shrine with its own war story and an easy stop if you’ve got time. You’ll also pass wind farms and long stretches of open desert, so keep an eye out for camels and chinkaras.
Getting There
The simplest way is a hired car with a driver from Jaisalmer. The roads are paved and in decent shape, though there are rough patches and you’ll share them with army trucks. Self-driving’s possible if you’re confident, but a driver who knows the route makes the day far easier. Public buses do run towards Tanot, but they’re slow and infrequent and don’t really suit a sightseeing day.
Best Time to Go
October to March is the most comfortable. It’s still bright and hot at midday, but mornings are cool and the drive is pleasant. From April to June, temperatures out near the border get extreme, so leave very early and carry a lot more water than you think you’ll need.
What to Carry
- Original ID for everyone, two each if you’re applying for the border
- Water, snacks and sunscreen
- A hat and sunglasses
- A light jacket in winter, since mornings are cold
- Cash, as card payments and signal can’t be relied on
Other Places to Add
If you’re staying longer, Tanot and Longewala fit well with the Jaisalmer War Museum on the Jodhpur highway, which is built around the story of the 1971 Battle of Longewala and makes a good introduction before you visit the battlefield itself. Our places to visit in Jaisalmer guide covers the rest of the city and the desert.
Staying in Jaisalmer for the Trip
Since it’s an early start and a long day, where you sleep the night before matters. Fort Rajwada is a palace hotel on the Jodhpur to Barmer Link Road, on the edge of the city, so you’re out of the old town traffic and onto the open road quickly in the morning. We’ve been hosting travellers since 1998, and after the property was reimagined in 2021, guests coming back from a day in the desert tend to head straight for the pool.
Our team arranges cars and drivers for the Tanot and Longewala trip regularly and can help with the permit process too. Reach reservations on +91-9828049555 or at reservations@fortrajwada.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far is Tanot Mata Temple from Jaisalmer?
About 120 kilometres, which takes two to two and a half hours by car.
How far is Longewala from Tanot?
Roughly 40 kilometres, around 45 minutes to an hour by road.
Is there an entry fee at Tanot Mata Temple?
No, entry to the temple is free.
Can I visit Tanot and Longewala in one day?
Yes. Most people do both in a single day trip, leaving early morning and getting back to Jaisalmer by late afternoon.
Is it safe to visit Tanot Mata Temple?
Yes. The area’s under the BSF and the army, the road is used by tourists every day, and it’s a well-visited pilgrimage site. Just follow instructions at checkpoints and don’t wander into restricted areas.
Do I need a permit for Tanot Mata Temple?
Not for the temple or for Longewala. You only need BSF permission if you want to go beyond Tanot to the border at BP 609.
Why is Tanot Mata Temple famous?
For the 1965 war, shells that fell around the temple are said to have failed to explode. The BSF has run the temple since, and some of those shells are on display there.
Access to border areas is controlled by the BSF and can change without notice. Please confirm the latest rules locally before you travel.
